The secret is out: Edie Parker clutches are the new IT clutch choice of glamorous women from Hollywood, to Cannes to Venice and beyond. Edie’s clever take on the ubiquitous purse has blazed new trails for the chic and celebrities alike. There isn’t a starlet worth her weight in box office on the scene without one.
Edie Parker bespoke clutches have always had a strong bent towards the eclectic and amusing. With her latest offerings for spring2014 (almost impossible to find due to their popularity) are more subtle and transferable. These clutches like her ‘Flavia” series, the “Edie” and her “Jean” clutches all answer the questions of her vast clientele.
Fausto Puglisi, an important new Italian on the scene stated before his show that the collection was a marriage of Carolina Herrera and Axl Rose, which translates to Rock & Roll meets a woman of elegance and refinement. To illustrate this hybridization he paired tres chic amply flared short ball skirts and long fluid ones under tough as nails leather biker jackets whose sleeves were covered in straps, buckles and even luscious gold embroidery. Even his subversive biker jackets were executed with the same skill, exquisite details and workmanship as his couture inflected dresses and gowns.
No one was closer to document the meteoric rise of the punk/new wave legends in Blondie than their guitarist/songwriter Chris Stein. He had privileged access while holding on for the wild ride as the band went from darlings of the gritty CBGBs club scene to the pop superstars they became through shattering the boundaries of rock, punk, new wave, disco, and rap with hit singles like “Call Me,” “Heart Of Glass,” and “Atomic.” Along the way, singer Debbie Harry achieved mythical pop star status, becoming beloved for her sensual elegance, gorgeous vocals, and radiant presence.
Stein’s intimate photographs of Debbie Harry have helped establish her as an international icon. His work is both bold and personal, capturing the glitzy cool of the band’s pose while revealing the tenderness and innocence lurking below the glamor.
Sevan Bicakci is a treasure. Not only is his work as a master jeweler of lost arts and techniques that only he holds the secrets too, but he is the rare artist who channels the past to create a fantastic present and future for the true connoisseur of Haute Joallier. To gaze upon his work is to take a journey back in time to the period that was Byzantium and the world of Empress Theodora. The age of intricate decoration, pageantry that rivals the monarchs of today, and lost arts of the cutting and carving of precious stones mixed with fancy colored gemstones as accompaniments is all but forgotten unless you happen into an exhibition in a museum or find yourself gazing upon a case of Sevan’s treasures. It’s as though the history, aesthetics and mysterious creation of jewels, that are more talismans than mere baubles, have found a new expression through his hands.
Sacai Luck, a Japanese design firm has a collection of playful, luxurious items that mix a million ways. From track shorts that are more lingerie than sport and crinkled chiffon Tee’s and printed cotton leggings, there are no ends to the possibilities. Every piece has a silky sheen that feels amazing to the touch. A shining anorak with hood in green protects from the elements making the practical stylish.
The piece de resistance this season is Sacai’s Tatami Original Birkenstock Fussbett platform sandal. But to create a statement that is uniquely theirs, the sandal sits on a white rubber platform with navy or white patent leather uppers. These sandals are just what the spring dictates. Step up and go for a spin!
Alber Elbaz conjures a dream of 70’s energy and 20’s glamour with a masterful use of fantastic color infused with shine. Shine is the operative word for an entire story spelled out in every sort of lame and lurex under the haute heavens. Whether the shapes are as unfussy as long to the floor shirtdresses or flowing tea dresses Elbaz dusts them in the most unusual shades of raspberry, grape, bronze, silver, gold, red and on and on. What’s special is the thinnest shading of grey that tempers everything to a sleek sophistication.
It’s almost cinematic the idea of a beautiful woman alone in the elements with a gailing wind and sheets of rain. Think long liquid tweed ensembles, bias cut and self-fringed floating and twisting around her body. If you’ve got that image firmly set in your mind’s eye you can imagine Alber Elbaz’s inspiration for his Fall 2014 collection for Lanvin. The opening cluster of looks all played on fringed tweed jackets and coats over matching skirts and dresses and all of them twisting asymmetrically around the body. Hats framed in clouds of fluttering Marabou feathers shadowed faces.
Fall 2014 brings a new fascination with surface details and sleek silhouettes. Shapes roam from soft fluid pajama separates to tailored jackets, coats and slim stirrup pants. Zipper and twisted cord passementerie is embroidered and snakes across sweaters, two-piece looks in tailored shirt and trouser. Silver and bronze colored zippers snake in abstract symmetrical patterns on some jackets and morphs into loosely rendered floral imagery. The same zipper found its way onto a very clever new bag.
Hedi Slimane’s vision for that most venerable of French Couture houses, is to take much of its iconic shapes with an admixture of West Coast provocation coming up with something altogether modern and new. The wraith thin looks from abbreviated Smoking jackets over micro skirts and a coy white crepe de chine poet’s shirts. A slew of coats and capes came one after the other in English checks and polka-dotted fox chubbies and black and white striped mink cardigans and jackets. The honey mink–neck cardigan over a classic silk print blouse dropped to the mid thigh. With each model reflecting the different moods of a present day Lolita there is a frisson to the overall look of these clothes.
Like the most delicate first blooms of spring rising above a layer of snow, Alejandro Ingelmo’s sleek, streamlined and impossibly elegant shoes announce a major season change. These heels are pure simplicity, drawing their drama and strength more from little or no superfluous decoration. The woman who wears Ingelmo is the focus with his skinny criss crossing straps that effectively change the definition of “Gladiator” sandals, whether open toed or closed. No statement making platforms to be found here. Just the sexiest heels that climb the leg behind like a bootie but in fact is all strappy sandal.
With much of the shoe design these past seasons focused on large exaggerated volumes Alejandro Ingelmo’s seductively simple collection of shoes in dusty pale pastels and state of the art metallics are a breath of fresh air. Spring is coming!